Wine tourism is a burgeoning trade, allowing wine enthusiasts and novices alike to see how wine goes from grape to glass. But often the wine tours leave an unsatisfied taste in the mouth, like a corked wine, as only select parts of the process are covered.
Enter Bernard Magrez, a man renowned for his desire for perfection, who has given a new twist to the wine tour, allowing visitors into the inner sanctums of winemakers, the chateaux themselves.
I am collected in a vintage Rolls Royce which oozes sophistication and ensures some stares from fellow flight passengers at the terminal. I sit back and relax as we make our way to our first stop, Chateau La Tour Carnet.
Built in the 12th Century, the chateau was almost destroyed when it was set alight for supporting the English in the 100 years war. When Mr Magrez took over the vineyard he set about a mammoth renovation project across the chateau, the cellars and the vines and in 2000 he began to pull out vines while expanding the vineyard from 15 hectares to 75.
We get back inside the car which takes us to Bassin D’Arachon, or the bay of Arcachon. The bay is an expanse of water some 150 km² at high tide, known for its fresh oysters. The best way to discover the bay of Arcachon is by a traditional “pinasse” boat, and of course Mr Magrez had ensured one was waiting for us.
As we headed out into the bay, the view was spiked with hundreds of wooden poles erupting from the surface of the water, used to mark the “pochons” or boxes where the oysters are bred. We are treated to the bounty below, fresh oysters served with bread and, of course, white wine (a Chateau Fombrauge 2006). I could have lapped up the sun and the wine for much longer, but we have to depart for Chateau Pape Clement.
It is clear why Chateau Pape Clement is such a jewel in Mr Magrez’s collection. The building itself is magnificent, given to Pope Clement V (at the time Archbishop of Bordeaux) in 1299 by Pope Boniface VII. The influence of the Pope is felt in the cellars, which have a deeply religious feel to them.
The cellar feels like a church dedicated to the worship of its sacred produce of wine. Stained glass windows adorn the far end of the cellar, and carved statues flank the barrels. Equally as breath taking is the summer house, designed by Gustave Eiffel. Mr Magrez happened upon a picture of the summer house, which had been dismantled and was sitting in a garage somewhere in the Alps. Lovingly restored piece by piece, it now sits in the grounds of Pape Clement.
My room in the chateau is beautifully presented with furniture complementary of the period decor. As I look out my window over the vineyards, I feel as though I have been allowed into the private world of the wine maker, a rare and delightful treat.
This experience is continued at dinner, where I am joined by Mr Magrez’s daughter Mme Cecile Daquin. She explains to me the premise behind the luxury wine tour idea.
“It is about comfort and convenience which is the idea of wine – it is for sharing and how to enjoy it is to be allowed into the chateau and share the experience.
“We want it to be like a home. We provide the experience and you get the chateau to yourself. “Particularly during harvest time in October most chateaux are closed but here it is one of the busiest times and it is one of the most exciting times. People can come and help if they want.”
Mme Daquin makes clear anything is possible, such as getting Mr Magrez’s chief wine taster to come to dinner, which was one party’s request, or getting the helicopter to Biarritz for the day.
The next day we head off to visit St Emilion, a town that dates back to prehistoric times and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Formed by the mighty Dordogne River carving through the limestone rock, St Emilion is on two levels joined by steep, narrow streets surrounded by Romanesque churches.
The town itself is named after Emilion, a monk in the 8th century who performed a miracle in Northern France but so fed up with the attention he received afterwards retreated as a hermit into the limestone caves. His hermitage can still be visited, complete with crude sleeping area and a chair, supposedly now blessed with the power to grant fertility to any woman who wants a child sitting on it.
The church built in St Emilion’s honour is a truly awesome sight, laboriously carved from the limestone cliffs of the town. Remnants of paintings still remain and when you imagine them in full colour, combined with the intricate imitation brickwork decoration, the church would have been a majestic sight.
From St Emilion it is a short drive to Chateau Fombrauge. The chateau is actually a chartreuse, bought by Mr Magrez in 1999. It dates back to the 16th century and is another chateau available for accommodation. In the courtyard I can see the sundial at its heart, built in 1679 and likened to the patience of the “men of the vine”.
Mr Magrez has created a series of packages that will appeal to both wine connoisseurs and those with a blossoming curiosity in wine making. The level of luxury adds a new dimension in wine tourism, but the real treat is being welcomed into the bosom of the winemaker within the chateau.
That the Magrez team have ensured visitors feel at home in the stately surroundings is a testament to their attention to detail, a trait that has typified their exceptional wines.
• The simplest experience offered is called “La Vie de Chateau”. This is a one day, one night experience and includes a private, guided tour of the vineyards and Chateau Pape Clement,a tasting of the best vintages, a picnic lunch in the Chateau park, a Rolls Royce drive to Bordeaux historic centre (or another town like St Emilion), a dinner in the dining hall and then an overnight stay at the Chateau. The cost is 990 euros per person.
Packages can be expanded to include up to 4 days with tours of all three Chateaux, tours of Bordeaux and St Emilion and stays in Chateau Fombrauge and Chateau Pape Clement. Optional extras include a helicopter tour, a boat trip in Arcachon Bay and for the seriously extravagant, a private chartered jet to Bordeaux. Prices vary according to the individual package.
Bordeaux is easily accessible by plane with flights with Easyjest from Luton, and with British Airways from Gatwick. A tram service runs from Bordeaux to outside Chateau Pape Clement, or for an additional fee you can be collected by Rolls Royce.
For more information email contact@luxurywinetourism.fr or visit luxurywinetourism.fr/en.
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