Rioja

It is becoming increasingly difficult to discuss Rioja as a general term. Such is the energy and innovation coming out of this ancient wine region that one cannot generalise any more about its wines. It is fair to say that the sudden influx of New World wines at the end of the nineties did catch quite a few European producers napping not least in Rioja. 10 years in however we can now see the results of that rude awakening.

Rioja is being forced to compete in terms of price and quality. This is not to say that Rioja did not provide value for money prior to the flood from Australia, South Africa Chile et al. There were and still are some absolute gems in Rioja although the raft of new style innovative wines has tended to add to the confusion for the consumer.

Traditionally Red Rioja divided into two styles. Oak has always played a big part here and the Denomination guidelines stipulate what period of time each wine must be in contact with the sweet American oak to qualify for each Classification. Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva. Red Rioja was either light in colour, with tangy strawberry tones overlaid with sweet vanilla oak or a Dark berry flavoured wine with a density of dark blackberry and plum fruit and a more reserved grainy oak edge.

Knowing the favoured style of each Bodega was essential to tracking down the kind of wine you were looking for. This distinction has blurred as many producers are developing new wines and styles to try and appeal to the modern consumer. Our favourites at the moment are as follows;

Rioja 'Single Vineyard' 2007, Ramon Bilbao Majestic £ 7.99 has a lovely damson, plum dense dark aspect to this ripe concentrated red that throbs with summer ripe plums and damsons with a deft touch of soft tannin.

Muga Blanco 2008 - £8.00, Majestic has a fresh lemon and quince nose with a vegetal edge hints of beansprout and spring onion or is that sub conscious auto suggestion? This is a full flavoured white with bags of character to the dry, melony apricot flavour with a dash of lemon.

Sainsbury's Rioja Reciente CVC £4.99 is a youthful fruity open style of Rioja with lots of ripe red fruit flavours with strawberry and raspberry to the fore of the warm chewy flavour.

Viña Real Gran Reserva1999 - £19.99, Majestic has a delicious blackberry and strawberry perfume laced with grainy vanilla oak spiked with hints of spice and tobacco leaf, velvety and full on the palate with smooth concentrated dark berry fruits and gentle oak structure leading to a delightfully complex finish.

Waitrose Rioja Cune £8.99 has a perfume of stewed plums and raspberries and a velvety smooth on the palate with a chewy plum skin edge to the ripe juicy plum fruit.

La Vicalanda Gran Reserva 2001 www.everywine.co.uk £ 22.15. Smoky plum and fig nose with a leathery, spicy edge. This one is far too easy to drink with a complex “sous bois” (autumnal forest undergrowth – think leaves, wood, chestnuts) edge to the dark plumy fruit with hints of tobacco leaf and spice.

Rioja Gran Reserva 2001 'Torre Aldea' Majestic £ 11.99 has a nose reminiscent of roast lamb and strawberries and a deep, dark blackberry and plum flavour that is still young and promises to evolve further.

Rioja Blanco 2008, Marques de Caceres Majestic £ 6.99 has a fresh, crisp ginger and lime nose leading to a weighty, sinewy mouthful of dry lemon and melon tones with a splash of grapefruit.

Marqués de la Concordia Rioja Tempranillo 2006 - £6.99, Oddbins has dusky damson and raspberry notes on the nose with more damsons mingled with cherries on the soft, smooth taste; delicious and so easy to drink with grilled or barbecued meat.

Sainsbury's Taste the difference Rioja Reserva Elegia 2002 £8.99 has a classic leathery, oaky edge to the ripe strawberry nose with a smoky, musky aspect. Lean on the palate with hint of smoked ham to the strawberry fruit.

Vina Pomal Reserva 2002 Majestic, www.everywine.co.uk £10.99 Tangy Grenadine and strawberry nose with vibrant flavour of ripe, strawberry and pomegranate with an attractive dark berry fruit edge.